I'm not quite sure about this book
- rosemary
- 4 days ago
- 6 min read
"No matter what food I make, or where or what I eat, taste is everything." Sabrina Ghayour
I was aware of Sabrina Ghayour because of her first book Persiana, references to which I come across now and again. I look out for it every now and then, but it has disappeared from the bookshops - just like NIgel Slater's earlier books. They don't stock old books unless they are huge sellers because there is always something new. So when I saw this one on a Readings bargain table some time ago I snapped it up. It has been sitting beside me on my desk for some time waiting for its moment in the dim light of my blog.
And truth to tell I'm really not quite sure about it. The recipes are indeed quite enticing, but in a very familiar way, which leaves me with a vague feeling of 'been there done that'.
In his book of the same name, written with Ixta Belfrage, Ottolenghi said:
"how many more ways are there to roast a cauliflower, to slice a tomato, to squeeze a lemon or to fry an aubergine? How many more secrets are there to be discovered in a handful of lentils or a bowl of polenta? The answer, I am delighted to report, is many."
Which he and Ixta then go on to prove with recipes such as Sweet and sour onion petals or, still on onions - Miso butter onions - which I have slotted away as one of my future miso experiments. And many more of course.
At first glance the recipes in Sabrina Ghayour's book are equally gorgeous looking but the vast majority do not have that quality of experimental and new - even wow. But to be fair, in this particular book - I cannot speak of the others - she is, aiming at a slightly different audience - those who are:
"Time poor and not always able to plan ahead, sometimes we don't have the right ingredients to hand, and more often these days, cost is an increasingly worrying factor."
Almost the same audience as the supermarket magazines? Although that's probably not fair. It's the vast majority of us really and also the people who like the food of the adventurous chefs, who ring the changes on old things, and inspire us to get back into the kitchen - and -increasingly, have a go at making up something new ourselves.
Let me try and explore my own reactions with a few of her recipes.
Before I criticise this I should say that on the Instagram version of this (on the right), she says
"More of a suggestion of great ideas than an actual recipe but so great for any meal for brunch, lunch or dinner."
The only things approaching an actual recipe for this one are telling you to mix tomatoes, onions and onion and dress with salt and pepper, olive oil, dried wild oregano, and pul biber or mix chickpeas with za'atar, lemon juice, coriander, olive oil and salt and pepper. It's an assembly job and every supermarket magazine is littered with similar photographs in ads from makers of sliced meats, dips, pickles, cheese and so on. You don't have to be a cook to assemble something like this.
So how do I feel about this? If I'm saying bravo - it would be to say that here is somebody respected telling you that there is nothing to preparing such a platter. It's encouraging the insecure to do their own thing. If I'm being critical I would say that it's a bit of a cheat in an expensive cookbook - cookbooks are not cheap - to waste one 'recipe' on something you can find over and over in magazines. You don't even have to make any of these things really do you? - you can buy them all.
She says it is inspired by
"one of the most classic Persian accompaniments - the whole flame-roasted tomato. A staple served with every kebab, it's simply made by placing a whole tomato on a charcoal grill and roasting until the skin is somewhat charred in parts and the soft flesh inside is bursting with juices."
Maybe, but to me it is more inspired by Ottolenghi's hot cherry tomatoes on cold yoghurt. Larger tomatoes, but roasted just the same in the oven. Her spicy sumac oil is her own though. I'm sure it's delicious, and in a way, even if it is inspired by the Ottolenghi dish it shows that you can take an idea and run with it, and I guess there is some merit in that. It looks a bit messy though doesn't it? Does that matter? I'm guessing if I made this mine would look messy too.
A rather more remote connection to an Ottolenghi - actually I think Noor Murad - recipe here, because meat is involved, and they are not served on a bed of caramelised onions. But I guess there are also lots of other similar recipes out there. And they are great. I guess it's a variation on a theme and almost every celebrity chef, and influencing blogger has had a go at it. So why shouldn't she?
I'm sure there are countless such recipes throughout the Middle-East, and the Eastern end of the Mediterranean, so why not? And they do look pretty tempting. I could have a go at these sometime.
I skimmed through the book again this morning and - actually to be very fair - I didn't like Ottolenghi's Flavour as much as his other books on my first read through, but have changed my mind of late - and my second thoghts on this book are a bit kindlier than the first ones. And to prove it here are a few recipes which I have bookmarked for another look, and possibly to make:
Halloumi airbags on NIgella's website where she gave the book a glowing review, and decided that this would be the first thing that she made from it. As you can see it's not just halloumi inside the pastries - it's a mix of parsley, mint and dill as well. The only thing I have against this recipe is that they are deep fried - always tricky at the last minute, and besides very bad for you. Plus what do you do with all that fat afterwards? Still I might have a go one day. "These need no accompaniment" says Sabrina.
Crispy, sticky harissa lamb. on the RTÉ website - inspired by a Cantonese dish - a long way away from Iran. It probably won't get made in this house however, because of the harissa - 4 tablespoons! and Ras el hanout sticky spatchcock poussins - although the recipe for this is not online. Also potentially too hot for David.
For me, perhaps the most tempting recipe in the book is that for Tomato and feta fritters - again the recipe is not online. It's tempting mostly because of the idea of tomatoes in a fritter was original - to me anyway - although she tells us that it is inspired by a Greek recipe. More frying however.
I started this post feeling fairly negative about the book. Maybe it was the long succession of salads of the Middle-Eastern kind which begins the book. I don't think of them as my thing, although to be honest, I haven't really tried many. They just felt so familiar and so 'same old, same old' to me. You will need to seek out that Aleppo pepper/pul biber that all of these cooks love. Maybe I should write to Coles and Woolworths to plead with them to stock it. Or I really should check out the couple of Middle-Eastern shops that have been commended to me.
Back in her Introduction, Sabrina Ghayour tells us that:
"To me, flavour is comfort, satisfaction and even nostalgia, but importantly, it never has to be complicated, heavy-handed or extreme."
And this book certainly contains plenty of simple, attractive, even enticing occasionally, recipes that just about anyone could have a go at.
We'll see. I'll make something - maybe the crispy chicken but without lashings of harissa. Or maybe I should buy a jar and see how I go with just a little bit. She does after all tell us not to be afraid to substitute or vary the words on the page to suit our own ideas of flavour.
I should also say that everybody else on the net thinks it's wonderful. So don't listen to me.
YEARS GONE BY
December 18
2024 - From Mrs. Beeton to ...?
2021 - What to do with all that jam
2020 - Missing
2018 - Masses of mint
2017 - Summer is here - I admit it
2016 - Routine - good or bad?
Her "platter of dreams" is enough to tirn me awau from further revelations, as her platter seems to contain everything I am not fond of like boiled egg and oilves. Other of her dishes look nice though. 🤪